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Ahsan Manzil: A Pink Palace on The River

To visit Ahsan Manzil, constructed between 1859 and 1872, and preserved as a historic museum from 1985 to 1989 before its inauguration in 1992, is to delve into the colonial-era history of Dhaka. Spanning across a 5.5-acre property, this magnificent palace stands as a testament to the opulent lifestyle of the Nawabs of Dhaka during the height of the British Raj in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Nawab Khwaja Abdul Ghani, the visionary patriarch of the Nawab family, erected the official residence and zamindar office named Ahsan Manzil in 1872, situated on the banks of the River Buriganga in Old Dhaka. The term “zamindars” pertained to landowners in Bengal, as referred to in Persian. Exuding a conspicuously European architectural design, Ahsan Manzil incorporates elements that may evoke thoughts of Mughal treatment of buildings in tropical climates due to its recessed verandahs. Notably, the triple-arched portal, temple-like facade with a pediment, Greco-Roman column capitals, pilasters, and arched windows predominantly reflect European influences, blended harmoniously with decorative Indian motifs. The grand dome, soaring above the structure, appears to be more of an external spectacle designed to leave an impression on viewers rather than a focal point within the interior. Why did the Nawab embrace a European architectural style for his palace? Before British colonial rule, local elites predominantly embraced Mughal architecture as their preferred style, especially for religious structures. Charles D’Oyly, the Collector of Dhaka, eloquently captured the essence of Mughal influence on local buildings in his book, Antiquities of Dacca, published in the early 19th century. However, with the increasing presence of British colonialism in India, architectural design gradually began to reflect the impact of European styles, starting from the late 18th century. Many zamindars, aiming to display their status, wealth, and power, commenced constructing extravagant bungalows in flamboyant European architectural styles. According to Nazimuddin Ahmed’s writings in Buildings of the British Raj in Bangladesh (1986), aristocratic feudal lords of the 18th and 19th centuries—frequently referred to as zamindars, often holding honorary titles of “Rajas” and “Maharajas”—were captivated not only by European attire, wine, horses, and external extravagance but also by architectural forms and embellishments that avidly emulated Western aesthetics in their ostentatious country houses or palaces. These picturesque palaces often combined European Renaissance elements with fading Mughal architectural forms. Nawab Abdul Ghani’s Ahsan Manzil serves as a remarkable example of this fusion. In the present-day hyper-congested and cacophonous urban landscape of Old Dhaka, it is challenging to envisage the once-dominant presence of this majestic structure on the riverfront skyline. During the colonial era, distinguished individuals would arrive at Ahsan Manzil via luxury boats, ascending the grand staircase that led to a vibrant vestibule and a domed rotunda on the second floor. Numerous dignitaries associated with the British Raj either visited or stayed at Ahsan Manzil. Notably, Lord George Nathaniel Curzon, who assumed the role of Viceroy or Governor General of British India in 1899, arrived in Dhaka to garner support for the proposed Partition of Bengal and found accommodation as a guest of Nawab Salimullah Bahadur in 1904. Two years later, another momentous event unfolded within the palace, holding crucial political implications for India as a whole. At the invitation of Nawab Salimullah, Muslim leaders from across the subcontinent congregated in Ahsan Manzil’s Durbar Hall for the 20th Session of the All India Mohammedan Educational Conference, held from December 27 to December 29, 1906, in Dhaka. It was on December 30 that the All India Muslim League emerged, spearheading the movement for the creation of Pakistan—an independent homeland for India’s Muslims—when the British eventually departed from the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The Nawabs of Dhaka trace their roots back to the Khwajas, who migrated from Kashmir to East Bengal, initially settling in Sylhet, before making Dhaka their home during the 1730s. When Mughal administration of Dhaka concluded with the demise of Gaziuddin Haider, the last Naib Nazim (Mughal administrator) of the city in 1843, the Khwajas assumed the role of the city’s “guardians.” They held significant positions, including the Commissioner of Dhaka Municipality. In 1867, Abdul Ghani joined the Viceroy’s Council. As chronicled by Syed Muhammed Taifoor in Glimpses of Old Dhaka (1956), the Nawab family played an instrumental role in the city’s modernization, particularly in developing educational systems, healthcare, and urban infrastructure. This entailed the establishment of a filtered water supply system to serve the city’s population. Additionally, the Nawabs were patrons of culture, supporting Urdu and Persian literature and nurturing poets and writers. A noteworthy event from 1875 involved Viceroy Thomas Northbrook participating in an evening program at Ahsan Manzil.

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